The chaotic northern edge of the centro histórico is a cameo of working-class Santiago. Its pungent spirit has been defined over the centuries both by its proximity to the poorer districts across the river and by its role as back door for the goods arriving from the seaport and the countryside at the Estación Mapocho – the Northern Railway station. In spite of the demise of the railway link, the area is still known for any number of commercial activities, from wholesale food markets to textile retailers. Over the centuries, this business orientation gave an important boost to the diversity of the area's dwellers, making this the multicultural heart of the capital, where Middle Eastern, Korean, Peruvian and Chinese communities rub up against some of the proudest, most quintessential Santiaguinos.
In addition to the incessant ebullience of its crowded streets, the area boasts something of a run-down beauty. Old, elegant palaces serve insolently as market lock-ups, smoky pool bars and brothels, in a display that can sometimes, but not always be classified as picturesque. But there are some genuine architectural jewels that stand as proudly as they always have. Among them is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, a gorgeous church with a history that dates back to 1557. It took three devastating earthquakes for a project in 1747 to consider the reconstruction of a temple using more resistant quarried stones. Designed by a Portuguese architect, João dos Santos Vasconcelos, the present-day building –the fourth to be built in this location – has a radically different flavour from every other church in the centro histórico. Its façade is austerely decorated with the images of saints, and is topped with two matching bell towers that were incorporated in 1808. The inside of the church is in line with the simplicity of the external ornamentation. The main nave is wide, dark and feels medieval with its bare stone pillars and complete absence of colour. Decorations too, are few and far between. The most notable is an image of the Virgin of Pompeii, which pulls the crowds every Thursday, day of her veneration.
'You’ll find several restaurants inside the market's main hall, offering essentially what visitors look for, simple and authentic Chilean dishes with a particular emphasis on fresh ingredients.'
Two streets behind the church of Santo Domingo is one of Santiago’s undying attraction, the Mercado Central. Although this has long been dethroned as the main wholesale market in the capital, most visitors in search of a lively ambience, excellent food and vociferous fruiterers and fishmongers find themselves satisfied in this intricately ornate marketplace. Its origins can be traced back to the Mercado de Abastos – the first wholesale market in the city – which used to operate on the Plaza de Armas until 1817. In that year Bernardo O’Higgins, the then ruler of Chile, ordered the transfer of the stalls to a purposely built structure at the site of the current building. The works for the current market started in 1864, which included the roof structure, manufactured in England and assembled over the building in 1872.
A recent drive to exploit its tourist potential has pushed the Mercado Central to partially abandon its original vocation and offer more than just the sight of market stalls. You’ll find several restaurants inside the main hall, offering essentially what visitors look for, simple and authentic Chilean dishes with a particular emphasis on fresh ingredients. The market itself, however, continues to provide an unrivalled – if slightly overpriced – selection of fruit, vegetables and fish that make this a true ‘foodie’ heaven.
Another highlight of the area is the Estación Mapocho. This virtuously decorated railway station was designed by Emilio Jecquier and built in 1905 in commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the Chilean Independence. The station linked capital to both Valparaíso and Argentina, and was in service until 1987, when a boom in coach and air travel forced this section of the railway system out of business. Only three years after its closure, the authorities decided to transform the premises into a venue to showcase art exhibitions, concerts and conventions. The Estación Mapocho underwent refurbishment works that focused primarily on recovering the exquisite original style of Jecquier, which had deteriorated considerably over the years. Back to its original splendour, the building today houses diverse cultural activities ranging from book fairs to fashion shows.
The station was built in an area of land that once was the natural riverbed of the Mapocho, and where authorities in the late 19th century decided to build the Northern railway. Such project affected the preservation of Santiago’s most senior and emblematic bridge at the time, Puente Cal y Canto which despite public opposition, was demolished to make way for the city’s northern rail terminal. The structure of the bridge was a masterpiece of colonial architecture, and only the remains of its original foundations can be appreciated on display inside the metro station that is its namesake. The Cal y Canto used to connect the centro histórico to what was denominated as La Chimba – a byword for 'slums' which was where the colonial underclass used to dwell. This is the precedent of today's Recoleta and Patronato, two northern neighbourhoods that have inherited much of the vivacity and scruffiness of this distinctive area. Across the river, life is about tough business, in whatever form it may come, from wholesale to street vending. This environment is overwhelming for Santiaguinos themselves, so don’t expect an easy ride if you choose to explore the city’s biggest fruit and vegetable market, La Vega.
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